Perthshire Travel Guide

Along the A9
Dunkeld \| Strath Tay \| North of Pitlochry \| Bleakness \| Munros \| Cycle Routes \| Practicalities
OS Landranger Sheets 42, 43, 52

Area Map

The A9
As you head north on the A9 from Perth the dual carriageway descends into a wooded valley containing the twin settlements of Birnam and Dunkeld and lo! there you are in the Highlands. It is as sudden as that. Should you take the back road through Bankfoot, you will see fields and then mountains cheek by jowl. The Highland Fault Line is very noticable at this point. As for the road itself, it has become a rather ghastly experience - Scotland's answer to the A303. Whilst it passes through some wonderful scenery, all the driver is likely to see is the rear end of a juggernaut doing its prescribed 50mph and a lengthy tailback waiting for the next dual carriageway section so that they can whizz past, eager to join the traffic jam where it all returns to single carriageway. To be fair, the government is in the process dualling it all, but in the slowest, most drawn-out manner imaginable. Not selling it very well, am I? Sorry. Anyway, back to the Pass of Birnam. Here the A9 passes through a narrow gap in the hills - and so does the railway line and the River Tay and this is proving to be problematic for the aforementioned dualling project. The station building is listed, so last I heard the proposal was to move it in one piece... The road now enters the broad and spacious Strath Tay with wooded hills on either side and the river forming a central feature. The settlements of Dowally, Guay and Kindallachan are on the east side of the road. This single carriageway section will be slow-going but at Ballinluig dual carriageway is resumed. Here we say goodbye to the Tay and enter the valley of the River Tummel, which the A9 crosses twice as it bypasses Pitlochry. The Pass of Killiecrankie is barely noticeable from the modern alignment and then you will notice that the Tummel has disappeared in favour of the River Garry, which will be a constant companion as far as the Druimuachder Pass. And then Invernessshire, Speyside and all things beyond the scope of this Perthshire website. Another note on the A9 dualling project. In 1861 the Inverness and Perth Junction Railway company started work on a new line between Forres and Dunkeld. With picks and shovels and lots of elbow grease it was opened to traffic in 1863. Yet in this twenty-first century, aided by vast amounts of mechanisation, computerisation and cleverness, the widening of an existing highway is scheduled to take twelve years. Mmmm!

Dunkeld
Dunkeld is delightful. Birnam is, well, less so. Sorry Birnam, but it's true. Dunkeld is very small, beautifully formed and full of history. It is on the eastern bank of the River Tay accessed from the A9 via Thomas Telford's elegant stone bridge. It is a tourist hotspot so expect to mingle with the hordes - and so pay over the top for your fish supper, coffee and scone. It will, quite likely, be an award-winning coffee and scone because that's the sort of place Dunkeld is! There are two car parks - one by the river (A984 dir. Caputh) and the other at the further end of town by the PCs. Both P&D. Birnam, by contrast, is Victorian in origin. It didn't exist until the coming of the railway in 1856 but does, nevertheless, have its charms, if only the Victorian bits. There are a number of blue plaques to read

Attraction	Location	Parking	Parking Charges	Admission
Dunkeld Cathedral	Cathedral Street (where else?)	Car Park	Pay and Display	N/A
I suppose that this makes Dunkeld a 'city' although this is not a currently accepted status. The far end is roofless and derelict (the cathedral that is, not the town!) whilst the near end functions as the local parish church. It was ransacked in 1560 by Reformation zealots, all things popish being anathema, and burned down along with the rest of the town in the Battle of Dunkeld in 1689. Meandering in the grounds next the river is a very pleasant thing to do
Tay Bridge	A923 between Dunkeld and the A9	Car park	Pay and Display	N/A
Thomas Telford design, erected in 1809. Stone-built, arched and elegant
High Street, The Cross, Cathedral Street	First left when entering over bridge from A9	Car Park	Pay and Display	N/A
This is what was burned to the ground in 1689. It was rebuilt and now much of it is in the ownership of the National Trust for Scotland, who themselves have carried out much restoration work. As a result it is all very prim and proper with lots of blue plaques. There is a conspicuous fountain, built in 1866 by the 6th Duke of Atholl (like King Saul of old, why wouldn't you build a monument to yourself?), the obligatory NTS gift shop and the Ell shop. What's an ell? Go and explore...
Loch of the Lowes	Signposted from A923, Blairgowrie	Car Park	Free	Admission Fee
Ospreys. There are coots and grebes, swans and geese, oh! and some ducks, but it's for the ospreys that most people flock here. And the poor things have no privacy. The place is bristling with telescopes and webcams. Clearly the birds are not overly concerned as they return year after year. Although I gather that 2020 was the year they abandoned the old homestead for a more secluded des-res elsewhere. Who says that The Creator doesn't have a sense of humour?
Birnam Oak	Around the back of a council estate	N/A	N/A	N/A
The last remnant of Birnam Wood - one ancient oak tree with limbs propped up. The Great Birnam Wood found lasting fame in the Shakespeare play MacBeth; alas a lonely survivor hardly counts as a 'wood'. There are many other trees although of a less esteemed nature. A pleasant walk is to be had along the west bank of the River Tay. I will not be afraid of death or bane, till Birnam forest come to Dunsinane
The rest of Birnam	Various attractions	N/A	N/A	N/A
Beatrix Potter was a regular visitor and so there is a Beatrix Potter garden, free to visit and inhabited by various sculptures based upon the characters of her imagination. The Birnam Arts and Conference Centre hosts an eclectic array of films and events. Birnam Hill, at 1,325ft offers some panoramic views of the area. A large cairn, King's Seat, marks the summit
Inver	West of the A9	N/A	N/A	N/A
A very small village on the other side of the A9. Here was the home of Niel Gow, famous fiddler and composer of Scottish folk music, the naturalist Charles Mackintosh and Kitty MacDonald, a ruddy, rotund washerwoman who always wore a white apron. Where did Miss Potter find her inspiration? Mr Gow now has a statue of himself on the green at Little Dunkeld. Look out for him
The Hermitage	A9 just north of the junc A822 to Crieff	Car Park	Pay and Display (NTS)	N/A
A lovely walk along the River Braan with its waterfalls, a viewing platform accessed from Ossian's Hall of Mirrors (a folly without mirrors), Ossian's Cave and some of the tallest trees in Britain - mostly Douglas Fir. After leaving the wooded area a footpath continues to Rumbling Bridge. This is well worth the effort. Actually, it's not that much effort. Just do it! It crosses a waterfall in a very deep gorge
Glen Garr and the Obney Hills	South of the A822	Car Park at Rumbling Bridge	Free	N/A
Glen Garr is tiny as glens go, yet dramatic, and makes for a very pleasant walk, which can be as easy or as strenuous as you wish. Walk east along the A822 from the car park and enter the driveway that leads to Balhomish Farm. Before you get that far there is a footpath veering off to the right. Staying on this will take you through the glen to a stone wall where the Highlands end. Abruptly! However, there is a vehicle track on the left that leads, almost, to a trig point on the east side of the glen - the Obney Hills. On the west side is an obelisk in some woods. Clambouring down the steep slopes, crossing the river, and ascending the other side makes for a fun day out. Self-navigation. There's no obvious route!
A Worthwhile Detour	A822 in the direction of Crieff	A drive	N/A	N/A
Take the A822, signposted as the Tourist Route to Stirling, through Trochry to Amulree. From here continue for a few miles to Sma' Glen for the most dramatic entry into (well, out of, from this direction) the Highlands. It doesn't have the mileage of Glen Shiel or tales of thorough beastliness in Glen Coe. It is short, sweet and impressive. When you have enjoyed... Return to Amulree and take the left turn signposted Glen Quaich. Firstly you will be presented with a red sign warning you not to attempt getting through to Kenmore in winter conditions. Unless you are driving a pistey-basher or snow-mobile, take heed! This road ascends to 1,750ft making it the seventh highest public road in Scotland. It is also very narrow, very steep and features hairpin bends. If your driving is lacking in confidence and reversing on hair-raising gradients is not your thing, you may well be advised to terminate at Garrow and return to Amulree. You will have seen some lovely scenery, including pretty Loch Freuchie. However, if it is appropriate for you to continue, you will be rewarded with some glorious views of the Ben Lawers massif, the Glen Lyon hills, Schiehallion and Faragon Hill. Back at Amulree, the A826 to Aberfeldy is also a pleasant diversion. The road climbs steadily up through Glen Cochill, past Scotstoun, Griffin Forest (walks) and Loch na Craige to about 1,300ft before descending dramatically into Aberfeldy. Look out for a different profile of Schiehallion. NB all views are weather-dependent. It is rarely obliging! Whilst on this detour, consider Buchanty Spout:
Buchanty Spout	B8063	Car Park	Free	N/A
Continue through Sma' Glen and turn left onto the B8063 signposted Harrietfield. In about two miles, at a junction, the road does a hairpin turn and here a small car park forms the clasp, so to speak. Park and go off for a wander down towards the bridge. On the nearside is a footpath leading to a rocky area where you will be able to see leaping salmon - if you are patient enough. On the other side of the river is a footpath, accessed via a pedestrian tunnel beneath the road. And up the road and opposite Glenalmond House is a lochan located in a peaceful grassy and wooded area.

Strath Tay
Just to the north of The Hermitage the A9 exits the pass and enters a broad valley: a strath: Strath Tay. Between here and Ballinluig, at the junction with the A827 to Aberfeldy, you have a choice - continue on the A9 which crosses to the eastern bank of the Tay, or turn left onto the B898 and head north through Dalguise and Balnaguard almost to Grandtully where, crossing the Tay at Pitnacree, the A827 will take you back to the A9 via Logierait. It's a longer slower route, the B road being single track-ish, that allows for a much slower, luxurious pace of life

Attraction	Location	Parking	Parking Charges	Admission
Walks at Dalguise	Dalguise	Car Park (Forestry)	Free	N/A
Forestry Commission plantations. As of 2019 the Scottish operations of the FC have been devolved to the Scottish Government and is now inelegantly known as Forestry and Land Scotland
Balnaguard Falls	Balnaguard	Alongside the road	N/A	N/A
Pleasant walk up to some waterfalls
Walk	Grandtully Hill	Car Park (FC)	Free	N/A
Forestry Commission walks up to Grandtully Hill (er, Forestry and Land Scotland walks)
Haugh of Ballechin	A827 west of Logierait	None	N/A	N/A
Not open to the public and on private land. The remains of Britain's most haunted house - alledgedly. Not one for me, but if you're into spectral hounds, wafting mistresses and things that go bump, well this could be a treat
Tay Viaduct (Aberfeldy branch)	Logierait	None	N/A	N/A
A rather grand structure, extant but sadly lacking the railway tracks. Nevertheless it is open to the vehicle traffic of the locals. Even sadder is that its Tummel counterpart just up the road has been entirely demolished
Craft Centre, Dowally	Dowally, A9	Car Park	Free	N/A
If you decided to stick to the A9, this is on the right hand side at Dowally
Ballinluig	A9	Various	N/A	N/A
I have yet to find any aesthetic, cultural or vaguely interesting reason for stopping at Ballinluig. But it has become a worthy pit-stop. There is fuel to be had for both soul and steed; a truckstop, Motorgrill, Red Brolly, Post Office. If a decent fry-up and honest mug of tea to wash it down, whilst mingling with truckers, will keep you going then Ballinluig is the place to be. Now, had it retained its railway station, with junction to Aberfeldy...
Edradour Distillery	Edradour	Car Park	Free	Shop free, tours are not free
The smallest distillery in Britain - when distilleries were traditional. A host of micro distilleries popping up in every corner of the land has stolen this epithet

North of Pitlochry
Pitlochry is the world-renowned Highland resort and is quite capable of looking after itself. For attractions at Garry Bridge and the Linn of Tummel please refer to the Rannoch and Tummel page of this website. Sticking to the old A9 (B8079) will take you through the villages of Killiecrankie, Bridge of Tilt and Blair Atholl and there's much to see and do

Attraction	Location	Parking	Parking Charges	Admission
Walks at Loch Faskally	B8019 just to the N of Pitlochry	Car Park	Free - Forestry and Land Scotland	N/A
Some short walks from the Forestry car park to Loch Faskally and around Loch Dunmore. The close proximity of the A9 rather does for the peaceful ambience. Still very beautiful. PCs available which HM Inspector of Conveniences ('er indoors) has declared to be worthy of many stars!
Killicrankie Visitor Centre	Glen Garry	Car Park	Pay and Display (NTS)	Admission charges apply
Battle of Killiecrankie - site of (1689) and Soldiers Leap. Location of one of those incredible acts of desperation that can be achieved only by a kilt-wearing Scotsman in full flight for his life. But this was a Redcoat without kilts to keep him aloft. Respect!
Old Bridge of Tilt	Bridge of Tilt	None	N/A	N/A
A pleasant detour up Glen Fender. Head across the bridge and up to the car park for some splendid walks on the Atholl Estate. There are many to choose from the very short to the very long
Blair Castle	Blair Atholl	Car Parks	Attendant in kiosk	Admission fees
The home of Clan Murray, the Dukes of Atholl, and the Atholl Highlanders, Britain's only private army. This is a major tourist attraction in the area so expect all the trappings associated with such - selfie-shooting hordes, delivered by the coachload
Blair Atholl	B8079	Car Park by the Country Life Museum	Pay and Display	Various
Village attractions - a working watermill (with cafe), the aforementioned museum, a railway station, village shop with Post Office. So much!
House of Bruar	B8079 north of Blair	Car Park	Free	N/A
Where Harrod's meets Trago Mills in the Highlands of Scotland. There are not too many lobster and chips shops in Britain. There is one here. I haven't tried it. I expect it is wonderful but my pockets are not that deep! Clan Donnachaidh Museum. Bruar Falls. And in the House of, Tweeds, silks, cashmeres, and everything 'country' for the hunting, shooting, fishing brigade. The cloakrooms are worth a visit. Yes, cloakrooms. What you and I would call the toilets
Falls of Bruar	Next to House of Bruar	Car Park	Free	N/A
If trudging around department stores is debilitating to the soul why not leave them to it and take a refreshing walk to the eponymous falls. It will take an hour or so and you will be inspired to withdraw the camera from its housing to record the glories of this particular piece of creation. Burns was inspired but he didn't have a camera. So he wrote about it instead

Into the North
Leaving Bruar astern, the A9 passes the settlements of Struan and Calvine (where there's a bridge over a bridge under a bridge. Have a look - you'll get the drift) and then leaves all signs of civilisation as it climbs steadily to the Pass of Druimuachder at 1,512 feet. Snow gates give a clue of what is to come. There is nothing up here - no 'old A9', no alternative route, no escape. This is lonely, This is barren. This is wonderful. This is a land of red deer, grouse, ptarmigan and hares. The few homesteads are sparse with names to enjoy - Dalnacardoch, Dalnaspidal, Balsporran. Roughly halfway between the first of those two, alongside the south-bound carriageway, is the Wade Stone. Yes, him the military man and road-builder. It is where, in 1729, the chaps building from Dunkeld met the chaps heading south from Inverness. The 'his and hers' of the Sow of Atholl and the Boar of Badenoch are hard to ignore as they stare at each other from either side of the county boundary. Driving through will give you a merest taste. You need to stop, don the boots and go and explore - with map, compass and plenty of dry and warm clothing. And then you'll come to Dalwhinnie, one of the highest villages in the UK with its railway station, distillery and funny little man wearing all-whites, playing tennis on a court equipped with cast-offs from Wimbledon. Summer only, of course. There are but two seasons in Dalwhinnie. Can you imagine playing tennis in the other season? Two disembodied tennis rackets and constant arguments over white lines. 'That was in! There would have been chalk dust were it not for this blessed other white stuff everywhere.' Yes, this really is wonderland. Talking of rivers, the far side of the Druimuachder is where the source of the River Truim is to be found. This burn heads northwards and into the River Spey near Newtonmore, eventually reaching the sea of the Moray Firth. It flows through Dalwhinnie but not into Loch Ericht, which is just a few hundred metres west of the village. It feels as though we are well into Speyside but Ericht empties into Loch Rannoch and its waters end up in Dundee. Two very different destinations but without an obvious watershed

Munros
The Munros of this area are not exactly the most challenging examples you will ever find. Nevertheless there are some cracking days-out to be had and a goodly number can be bagged without too much effort
Name	Height	Rank	Access
Carn Liath Braigh Coire Chruinn-Bhalgain Carn nan Gabhar	3199ft 3510ft 3678ft	181 66 32	Three Munros and an additional top that can be accessed from the lanes round the back of Blair Atholl. The authorities are turning the ascent of Carn Liath into a stone staircase. Not a fan, but the scar, once visible for miles around, has been patched up
Carn a'Chlamain	3159ft	192	A lonely member accessed from the car park at Old Bridge of Tilt. It's a long walk in so a bicycle is in order
Beinn Dearg	3307ft	124	Another lonely one. McNeish recommends Old Blair as your starting point but I am wondering about doing it from Bruar whilst The Manager luxuriates amongst the silks and cashmeres of the eponymous House of
A'Bhuidheanach Bheag Carn na Caim	3071ft 3087ft	240 232	Oh dear! I suppose these two must be done if completing the set is your aim. A large, slightly undulating plateau with steep, grassy sides. Your challenge: find the summits! In poor visibilty this can go horribly wrong. Be warned!
Geal Charn A'Mharconich Beinn Udlamain Sgairneach Mhor	3008ft 3199ft 3317ft 3251ft	279 179 119 155	Four Munros that make a splendid day out. Admittedly two of these are in Invernessshire but they can't help that and to miss them out would be folly. And the great thing about these is that you are nearly halfway up, even before starting out, given the altitude of the A9 as it summits the Druimuachder Pass. Start either on the pass (lay-by) or further north at Balsporran Cottages (car park). Either way a trudge along the A9 using the attendant cycle path is unavoidable. Unless you can do something imaginative with a bike or have a tolerant other half

Cycling Routes
I haven't done too much cycling in this neck of the woods. My loss! However the National Cycle Route 7 follows the old A9 as far as Calvine and then takes a parallel alignment alongside the current A9 over Druimuachder

Practicalities
Public Conveniences	Dunkeld - Atholl Road car park Pitlochry - Rie-Achan Loch Faskally car park
Fuel	Aberfeldy, at Co-op - not 24 hours (Jet) Birnam, towards the south end of the village (Pace) Ballinluig, just off the A9 - not 24 hours (Gulf) Pitlochry, Perth Road - not 24 hours (BP) Bridge of Tilt - NB 24 hours but at all times it is one of those miserable DIY card-only forecourts. You cannot pay by cash, and you hope that a malfunction will not diminish your journey (Gulf) Northbound - Dalwhinnie (9am - 5pm), Newtonmore (Esso). That's a long way!
Vehicle Recharging	Moness Terrace car park, Aberfeldy PH15 2AF Rie-Achan Road, Pitlochry PH16 5AW Railway Station, Pitlochry PH16 5AN Fonab Castle, Foss Road, Pitlochry PH16 5ND Knockendarroch Hotel, Higher Oakfield Road, Pitlochry PH16 5HT Atholl Street car park, Dunkeld PH8 0AT
Refreshments
Dunkeld, Ballinluig, Pitlochry	This is tourist central. You'll be spoilt for choice. A range of cafes, hotels and restuarants are to be found everywhere, Pitlochry and south, that is. Northbound you'll be on your own!
Dowally (A9)	Dowally Craft Centre and cafe
Grandtully	A number of establishments
Logierait	Logierait Hotel
Ballinluig	Services for the A9
Killiecrankie	Killicrankie House Hotel
Blair Atholl	Watermill cafe, Museum, Atholl Arms, The Loft Restuarant, etc
House of Bruar	Self-service restuarant and cafe
Other
Medical Practice	Aberfeldy Medical Practice, Taybridge Road, Aberfeldy PH15 2BH 01887 820366 Pitlochry Community Hospital (MIIU), Ferry Road, Pitlochry PH16 5FG 01796 472052
Defibrillator	Next to Kenmore Hotel, Kenmore PH15 2NU The Birks Cinema, 1 Dunkeld Street, Aberfeldy PH15 2DA The Fire Station, Crieff Road, Aberfeldy PH15 2BJ Dalwhinnie Filling Station and Post Office PH19 1AF
Library	Aberfeldy Library, Breadalbane Campus, Aberfeldy PH15 2DU Pitlochry Library, 26 Atholl Road, Pitlochry PH16 5BX
Jehovah's Witnesses	Kingdom Hall, Moness Terrace, Aberfeldy PH15 2AD Meetings: Thursday 19:00, Sunday 10:30

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