Perthshire Travel Guide

Fortingall and Glen Lyon
Fortingall \| Munros \| Cycle Routes \| Practicalities
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Fortingall and Glen Lyon
Fortingall is a very attractive place, sometimes called the 'English' village with its thatched cottages, so unusual here in Scotland. The land was purchased by Sir Donald Currie from the Campbells in 1885 and it was he who commissioned James McLaren to rebuild the village. This development created the aforementioned thatched cottages, the hotel, an enlarged Glenlyon House, farmhouses and various estate buildings. Even the kirk is twentieth century (1901). Its claims to fame are the ancient yew tree in the kirkyard and that Pontius Pilate was allegedly born here. His dad was possibly attached to some Roman diplomatic corps; although associating Roman expansionism with diplomacy is a concept to struggle with. Looks like a lamb, speaks like a dragon! Now where have I seen that before? Consequently some of the ancient artefacts in the vicinity are of Roman origin whilst many others are pre-Roman - standing stones, forts, moats, cup and ring marked rocks... The solitary standing stone in the field opposite the hotel is not so ancient. It was raised to mark the location of a mass grave. When The Plague struck the village in the 16th century, there were so many victims that they could not be accommodated in the churchyard and so were buried in the field. The stone is called Carn-na Marbh (Cairn of the Dead). There! I knew that would cheer you up. Glen Lyon is locally promoted as the longest and loveliest glen in all Scotland. I haven't personally verified its relative length and its loveliness is very subjective; we all see things differently. Nevertheless, it is undoubtedly long - the road stretches for over 24 miles, from Coshieville to the dam and should you make your way to the end of the loch, you'll be within a stone's throw of Bridge of Orchy. And it is definitely lovely. You will be charmed by its changing character as it opens up and becomes wilder and lonelier. As you make your way along the glen, admire the hills, the river and lochs and the trees. In autumn, the arboreal reds, oranges and browns are quite breathtaking. Keep a look out for deer, golden eagles, black-throated divers and anything else that might come your way

Attraction	Location	Parking	Parking Charges	Admission
Fortingall Yew	In the churchyard	By the kirk. Respect the faithful at service times	Free	N/A
The yew tree, or what remains of it, was apparently flourishing when Solomon was building his temple in Jerusalem. The claim is that it is the oldest living thing in Europe, being several thousand years old
Bridge of Lyon	Road to Fearnan	None	N/A	N/A
A stone plaque on the bridge will tell you that this is the work of one Archibald Ballantyne and that he built it in 1793, and over 220 years later it is still up to the job. It hasn't collapsed beneath the articulated timber lorries that ply this route. Who was Mr Ballantyne? I haven't yet found out. Next to the bridge, downstream, can be seen the footprints of another bridge. If the light and water conditions are just right they're easy to see, otherwise easy to miss. Was that an earlier bridge? Was it a practice run? Did it fall down, or was it swept away? I really don't know! Slightly further downstream is Peter's Pool at the point where the River Lyon abruptly changes direction, the eponym being one Peter Dewar (1848 - 1924), a keeper on the Breadalbane Estate
Pass of Lyon and McGregor's Leap	The entrance to Glen Lyon	Roadside. Difficult	N/A	N/A
The Pass of Lyon is quite dramatic, with its narrow and serpentine road hugging the cliffs above the river so named. The glen opens up considerably after a while. As for the leap, the eponymous hero was one Gregor McGregor and he leaped for his life whilst fleeing a band of Orchy Campbells. The feats achieved by these Scots, held aloft by flowing kilts and with the wind in the willows, is quite extraordinary. Some years later a visiting athlete attempted the same. He failed. He's deid! Och well. To get to the actual leap, step over the fence via a small wooden style, and walk down to the chasm. Do not leap! Resist the urge
Faerie Bridge	Opposite side of river close to Chesthill Estate	Roadside. Difficult	N/A	N/A
Also known as the Roman Bridge or Packhorse Bridge. Very photogenic. An old stone arch crossing a burn in front of a substantial waterfall
Carnbane Castle	Above the road	Roadside, Difficult	N/A	N/A
Some ruins that are difficult to see from the road and not easy to approach once found. Ideal characteristics for a fortified home. If you pass the telephone exchange and arrive in Invervar, you've missed it! Built by Duncan Campbell 'The Hospitable' in the sixteenth century, it was apparently thatched and was easily burned down by some enemies. A slightly less ideal characteristic for a fortified home! So his son Colin built Meggernie, further up the glen, rather than restore Carnbane
Lint Mill	Invervar	Car park on left prior to village	N/A	N/A
Sign-posted from the road. A two-storey circular mill, hailing from the eighteenth century, built for the production of linen from locally-grown flax
St Adamnan's Cross	Camusvrachan	Roadside, Difficult	N/A	N/A
St Adamnan was the Abbot of Iona, a long time ago. Along with his cross he also had a bell and this can be seen at Glenlyon Church
Glenlyon Church and War Memorial	Innerwick	Car Park	Free	N/A
Nineteenth century whitewashed church that is used for music recitals and the occasional religious service. Keep an eye open locally to see what's on. Home to St Adamnan's bell, he of the cross you saw earlier
Walks	Innerwick	Car Park	Free	N/A
Walk through the Lairig Ghallabhaich over to Loch Rannoch. As part of their deforestation project, Meggernie Estate has also provided various way-marked routes from this car park. It is an easy walk to the Post Office at Bridge of Balgie, where refreshments are usually available. See below
Post Office and Tearooms	Bridge of Balgie	Layby just beyond the PO	Free	N/A
What more lovely place could there be to have a cup of tea and a cake? Take a look at Balgie's bridge whilst there
Walks	Road to Ben Lawers	Layby and car park	Free	N/A
Information boards in the layby and at the car park further on provide details on some pleasant way-marked walks. Note that beyond the car park, the road is not treated in winter. In such conditions, proceed only if your vehicle is suitably equipped
Meggernie Castle	Beyond Bridge of Balgie	N/A	N/A	N/A
The castle is a private home and not open to the public. Nevertheless it can be seen from the public road and is quite picturesque. Built by the Campbells of Glen Lyon, of whom 'mad Colin' was quite a character. Enjoyed chasing goats off cliffs and stealing wives... Just beyond the castle is a right turn to Loch an Daimh, its dam and two Munro's
Breadalbane Hydro Scheme	Upper Glen Lyon	N/A	N/A	N/A
Six dams, seven power stations and many miles of tunnels, all based around Lochs Lyon, Tay and Earn, form the Breadalbane Hydro Scheme. Imagine being a 'Tunnel Tiger', boring through those miles of rock by hand to create pipe-sized tunnels and living in temporary camps for years and through all weathers! The supply paraphernalia at Stronuich and Cashlie rather detracts from the wild beauty of the upper glen. Although completed in 1961, the scheme actually started producing power in 1956. The giant Lubreoch Dam lengthened Loch Lyon by some miles and in the process drowned three miles of road leading to the equally drowned community at Invermeran. Replacement houses were built at Pubil by the power company but a small estate of eight bungalows in such a remote location seems rather incongruous. It looks sad and forlorn and somewhat unoccupied. That the nearest shop is about an hour and a half away, by car, probably explains a lot!
Campbell Monument	Cashlie	Layby	N/A	N/A
On top of a significant mound is a memorial to Robert Campbell (1808-1894) who did a lot of exploration across the northwest of Canada as a fur trader and representative of the Hudson's Bay Company

Munros
Name	Height	Rank	Access
Carn Gorm Meall Garbh Carn Mairg Meall nan Aighean	3376ft 3176ft 3415ft 3218ft	103 186 91 169	A goodly day out. Parking has been provided at Invervar, immediately prior to the hamlet. Do not park in the road
Stuchd an Lochan Meall Buidhe	3150ft 3058ft	197 248	Park at the Loch an Daimh dam on the Lochs Estate. Munro baggers just do the two summits in an out-and-back fashion from the car. For a more rewarding day out do them as a complete circumnavigation of the loch. You will discover some wonderfully remote countryside
Meall Ghaordaidh	3409ft	93	Usually done from Glen Lochay but why not give it a go from Glen Lyon?
Beinn Mhanach	3130ft	211	The usual recommendation is to tackle this from the A82 near Bridge of Orchy. There's no reason not to do it from Glen Lyon. It's not easy to get to either way

Cycling Routes
Route	Length	Start	Finish	Height Gain	Max Gradient
Fortingall to Loch Lyon and return	43 miles	Fortingall	Your starting point	Approx. 2100ft	Undulating - nothing arduous
Should take less than 3 hours. The return is a lot easier, you'll be pleased to learn. Mostly downhill with a prevailing tail-wind
Balgie and Ben Lawers	32 miles	Fortingall	Your starting point	Approx 2230ft	15%
Head up the glen, turn left at Bridge of Balgie, and take the long climb up to Loch an Lairige. Enjoy the descent to the A827. Turn left to Fearnan and return to your start point. 2hours 15, maybe?

Practicalities
Public Conveniences	Meggernie Estate provide PCs in the car park at Innerwick (closed in winter)
Fuel	There is no fuel available in the area. See below for your best options: Lix Toll, 2 miles to the west of Killin at the junction with A85 NB 24 hours but at all times it is a DIY card-only payment system. You cannot pay by cash, there is no shop and no one to assist in the event of malfunction Aberfeldy, 23 miles east of Killin and 6 miles east of Kenmore at Co-op - not 24 hours The next nearest are at Tyndrum A82 and at Ballinluig A9 (neither 24 hours). There are no petrol stations around Loch Tay
Vehicle Recharging	Main St, Killin FK21 8UT Loch Tay Highland Lodges, Killin FK21 9TY Taymouth Marina, Kenmore PH15 2HW Moness Terrace car park, Aberfeldy PH15 2AF
Mobile Signal	There is very little, if any, mobile signal in Glen Lyon. Don't fret about it. Put the phone away and enjoy the beauty, the peace and quiet. Recharge yourself...
Refreshments
Fortingall	Fortingall Hotel and Ewe Bar
Bridge of Balgie	Post Office and Tea Rooms
Other
Medical Practice	Killin Medical Practice, Ballchroisk, Killin FK21 8TQ 01567 820213 Aberfeldy Medical Practice, Taybridge Road, Aberfeldy PH15 2BH 01887 820366
Defibrillator	Outside Falls of Dochart Retirement Home, Main St, Killin FK21 8UW Ben Lawers Hotel, Lawers PH15 2PA McLean Hall, Fearnan PH15 2QW Next to Kenmore Hotel, Kenmore PH15 2NU The Birks Cinema, 1 Dunkeld Street, Aberfeldy PH15 2DA
Library	Killin Library, Main St, Killin FK21 8UW Aberfeldy Library, Breadalbane Campus, Aberfeldy PH15 2DU

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