Welcome to the Ad-free Guide to the Perthshire Highlands

Rannoch and Tummel
 

  Rannoch | Tummel | Munros | Cycle Routes | Practicalities

OS Landranger Sheet 51


Top
Area Map

Rannoch Moor

Rannoch Moor! The name alone strikes a chill into the heart of many a traveller, lost, disorientated and in fear of his life. It doesn't take too much investigation to unearth accounts of the missing, found days and weeks later drowned or frozen. Of course, today's traveller whizzes along the A82 in a warm and comfortable coccoon and barely notices. Or they potter along the B846 to the station on a sunny day, have coffee and cake in the cafe, before returning to their warm holiday abode! Walkers on the West Highland Way get more of a feeling for the moor whilst walking upon the cobbled and beaten track of the old military road. Rail travellers gaze from the window of the miserable DMU that passes as a 'train' in this country, blissfully unaware of the rigours and effort that went into building a railway line in such inhospitable terrain.
The name Rannoch comes from the Gaelic ratheanach meaning watery. That is most certainly not inappropriate. It is a large and featureless area of a thousand lochans and interminable peat bog. And a wonderful place to go and explore, provided you are well-kitted and know what you are doing! If you fall into this latter category, it becomes a wonderful place to evade the authorities. At least so thought Robert Louis Stevenson, as this is exactly what his heroes David Balfour and Alan Breck did in the romantic novel Kidnapped. Alas, nobody can evade anymore. Big Brother Google is watching. Even on Rannoch Moor!

Street Map of Kinloch Rannoch

Kinloch Rannoch and West

The peculiarly named Kinloch Rannoch seems to have dragged its anchor and drifted down the loch. Kinloch means 'head of the loch' and yet the settlement that goes by that name is at the foot of the loch. Nevertheless it is pleasantly situated amid fine scenery and is a very convenient centre for exploring this beautiful area. The village was named, designed and built by James Small, a soldier turned factor, appointed in 1754. The obelisk in the square commemorates Dùghall Bochanan, the Sacred Bard of Rannoch. A teacher, he is credited with bringing great educational improvements to the area, formerly 'possessed of the most lawless and thievish people' and 'a wild and dangerous place, the haunt of reivers and outlaws, the backward and ungodly'! Did he succeed? Go and decide for yourself!
Oh, and keep an open eye for the Rannoch Sprawler Moth, the Rannoch Rush and Scots Asphodel. They're all in the area

Attraction

Location

Parking

Parking Charges

Admission

Loch Rannoch

B846

Car Park and various lay-bys

Free

N/A

Loch Rannoch is large and famous for its ferrox trout - trout of unusually large size - and is unique for having three distinct species of Arctic Charr, one pelagic and two benthic. It is surrounded by gently sloping hills and this makes the loch much more approachable than many - Loch Tay, for example, whose shores are generally steep and wooded. The main B846 runs along the northern shore and a secondary road takes the southern shore. As a result there are many beaches and grassy areas where the car party can pull in and tarry a while. Get the blanket out, the picnic and the coffee and biscuits and then run screaming when the midges spot you and decide to have their own feast!

Creag Varr

Kinloch Rannoch

In village

Free

N/A

An imposing crag but nowhere near as difficult to scale as at first might seem. You have a choice of routes - the landrover track to the rear of the garage or the Hillside Path a little to the east of the village. The former is a bit utilitarian, the latter more verdant. They join at a gate with an adjacent style from where you head off across a boggy section and through the bracken to attain the cairn and viewpoint. Splendid views of Schiehallion, Loch Rannoch, Dunalastair Water and, in the distance, Loch Tummel.

Beach and War Memorial

South of the village

Car Park

Free

N/A

Beach with a splendid view straight down the loch towards Glen Coe

The Clan Trail

Various locations, signposted

N/A Just don't block access

N/A

N/A

Discover the clans who inhabited the area. There were seven of them and plaques at various locations will tell you about them and their doings. These doings were often unpleasant and you might regret it

Carie

South Rannoch road

Car Park

Free

N/A

Walks - through to Glen Lyon if you fancy. But be prepared to walk back again as it's a long way round by road. Unless your other half is very tolerant and won't get lost

Historical Note - Dall House: Rannoch School arose from the threatened eviction of Altyre School from its premises in Gordonstoun, Moray. Three teachers took up the challenge of relocating and in 1957 they purchased Dall House from the Forestry Commission. They succeeded in setting up an Independent Boarding School, expending a good deal of blood, sweat and tears in the process. It opened in 1959 and was a great success, the curriculum designed to build character through activities - camping, climbing, swimming, sailing... Alas attitudes change and parents became less willing to despatch their darling progeny to such remote locations - or possibly to have them 'characterised'. Obesity, diabetes and RSI is far preferable! It closed in 2002 and is now a private house

Black Wood of Rannoch

South Shore west of Dall Estate

N/A

N/A

N/A

A large area of ancient, primeval Caledonian forest, now in the care of the Forestry Commission

Eilean nam Faoileag

Loch Rannoch

N/A

N/A

N/A

Very prominent towards the western end of the loch, you may be wondering what it is. It is an artificial island, crannog, designed to be a place of refuge. The MacGregors used it for illicit purposes until vengeance was meted upon them. Apparently there is a secret underwater causeway that zig-zags it way to the island thereby avoiding the deeper water on either side. I have yet to verify this!

Historical Note - Rannoch Barracks: Not open to the public, as it is now a private house, but formerly used by soldiers employed to keep the peace following the failure of the '45 rising. Just in case you were wondering why someone should call their home 'The Barracks'

Rannoch Station

B846 - at the far end

Car Park

Free

N/A

A railway station (yes, railway station - we don't have train stations in the UK. Indeed we don't have many trains but that's another story.) at the end of the road and in splendid isolation. Yet, amazingly it would seem, there are direct services north to Fort William and Mallaig, and south to Glasgow and London. But why would you want to go to such smelly and polluted places (those in the south, I mean) when you can sit on the platform, in the middle of nowhere, with a coffee and a hunk of cake...? And whilst doing so, ponder on the thousands of navvies employed in building the railway. Their suffering and hardship. The fact that the trackbed in places is 'floating' on bog, and that in others alternatives were required because it was just too wet. The longest viaduct on the line is just to the north of Rannoch Station and, in turn, just south of the Cruach snowshed - a cutting with a roof to prevent it filling with snow. The railway was built for the North British Railway and opened in 1894

Historical Note - Rannoch Lodge: Not open to the public but included here for historical interest, given its long line of illustrious visitors. Andrew Carnegie, Cecil Rhodes (he of Rhodesia now Zimbabwe), Elizabeth Taylor, Winston Churchill...

Schiehallion

Schiehallion Road

Car Park

Pay & Display

N/A

Schiehallion gets its own entry. It is more than just another mountain. Sidh Chaillean is the mountain that can be seen from everywhere. It is distinctive. It is a singleton. It is unmistakable. From certain angles it displays a remarkable symmetry of shape. Ask a wee bairn to draw a mountain and Schiehallion, as seen from Loch Rannoch, is what you will get. This symmetry made it a perfect candidate for weighing the earth. If this interests you, do some research on the astronomer royal Sir Nevil Maskelyne and his invention of contour lines. It is a fascinating story

Dunalastair House

Dunalastair Water

N/A

N/A

N/A

The gaunt and derelict remains of the Clan Donachaidh family home. On the north side of the eponymous water, between it and the B846. You'll need an OS map to investigate. Pedestrians are allowed, vehicles and drones not!

Lime Kiln

Tomphubil

Car park

Free

N/A

Lime kiln and information board telling you about lime production and its uses. This is just over the summit of the road from Tummel Bridge to Aberfeldy (B846)

Loch Kinardochy

Schiehallion road

Car park

Free

N/A

Loch Kinardochy is the body of water at the top of the hill, near the lime kiln. Good for angling, although a licence is required. This presumably also allows use of the green rowing boats

Geographical Centre of Scotland

Dun Coillich B846 dir Aberfeldy

Car park

Free

N/A

Should you enter the car park at Dun Coillich and read the notice board a map attached thereupon will tell you that you are very close to the centre of Scotland, the precise location being on the eastern side of the eponymous hill. What it does not define is the basis for this claim; a number of locations make the same claim! The summit of Schiehallion, a point on the A9 north of Dalwhinnie, amongst others. Now I don't really like repeating unsubstianted claims so in attempt to understand the basis of this claim I did some calculations. Based on the following extremities:

  • South - Mull of Galloway at 54°38'6"N
  • North - Easter Head, Dunnet at 58°40'21"N
  • East - Peterhead at 1°47'53"W
  • West - Ardnamurchan Point at 6°13'40"W

    I found the midpoint between each pair and lo! I there I was on the side on Dun Coillich. There are, of course, other methods of calculation which I suppose are equally valid. Does one include some or all of the islands? Is Skye still an island with its bridge? I am happy that this claim does have some credentials that I can verify. A point just north of Calvine claims to be the furthest from the sea but that's another thing.
    While you are here, enjoy a walk.

  • Top

    Loch Tummel

    Loch Tummel is situated just to the west of the A9 north of Pitlochry, lying to the south of the B8019 that heads west from Garry Bridge. The Queen's View is justifiably famous. Alas, the elegant stone bridge at Tummel is completely ruined by an awful steel bridge, that is purely functional, devoid of redeeming or meritorious features of any kind! According to an article published in the Breadalbane Quair (July '21), the original bridge was built in 1730 by John Stewart of Kynachin. He was duped into doing so by General Wade, something he deeply regretted when, a few years later, the English army marched north subduing as it went! It all led to Culloden


    Attraction

    Location

    Parking

    Parking Charges

    Admission

    Aqueduct

    Tummel Bridge

    Roadside

    N/A

    N/A

    Part of the Tummel hydro scheme, this rather large leat brings water to the power station. You might be disappointed. The word aquaduct somehow conjures images of multi-arched, magnificent structures carrying water high above the valley floor. This is just a river with a concrete wall. Nevertheless it makes for a very pleasant walk. It is accompanied by a parallel road which is ideal for ambling and cycling

    Allean - Walks and Picnic Area

    B8019

    Car park

    Free

    N/A

    A Forestry Commission car park and picnic area. There are splendid views of Schiehallion and pleasant way-marked walks in the woods above. The toilets are of the 'long drop' type. Everything disappears into the abyss and a bit of sawdust helps contain seepage. They are more usually described as 'green' or 'environmentally friendly'

    Queen's View

    B8019

    Car Park

    P&D

    Admission charges apply

    Very beautiful, although it is no longer exactly the same as viewed by Queen Vic and her Albert. The hydro scheme has raised the water level of Loch Tummel by a few metres. Nevertheless it is a splendid view looking towards Schiehallion and is likely very similar. Sadly a public view has been turned into a commercial opportunity. But then again the road is not blocked by cars and coaches whilst the occupants enjoy the view

    Garry Bridge - Bungee Jumping and Walks to Linn of Tummel

    B8019

    Car Park

    Free

    N/A

    Throw yourself from a bridge! Although please inform the good folks at the Killiecrankie Visitor Centre first. They'll weigh you to ensure the rope is short enough and strong enough, and extract some dosh from you. If that all sounds too exciting, there are some delightful riverside walks around the confluence of the Rivers Garry and Tummel, at the top end of Loch Faskally. Waterfalls, viewpoints and a monument commemorating the visit of Her Majesty in MDCCCXLIV

    Linn of Tummel - From the Other Side

    Foss Road, Clunie Dam

    ex Car Park

    Used to be free!

    N/A

    Where the Rivers Tummel and Garry meet. Entry is via a rather grandiose archway. Drive down the hill to find... that the large, grassy car park has been gated and padlocked! Is that mean-spirited of SSE or a reaction to the actions of the selfish and irresponsible? So there is nowhere to park but it is still a pleasant place to walk

    Top


    Munros

    There are not too many Munros accessible from Rannoch. However we have one of the most beautiful, shapely and famous Munros in all of Scotland. Further west, two Munros can be knocked-off from the track to Loch Ossian

    Name

    Height

    Rank

    Access

  • Schiehallion

  • 3553ft

    59

    Car park at Braes of Foss. Forestry Commission and so Pay & Display but at least they provide toilets. If the weather is clement the car park quite often overflows so you could be finding yourself parking space some way away. As an alternative, and to avoid the hordes, it can be done from Tempar, although there is no parking so you will need to be considerate of the neighbours. Also the starting altitude is lower than at Braes of Foss and the path less well-trod. Tempted?

  • Sgor Gaibhre
  • Carn Dearg

  • 3133ft
    3087ft

    208
    231

    Head north from the B846 a mile or so before the station. Alternatively jump on a train to Corrour and walk back

    Top

    Cycling Routes

    Route

    Length

    Start

    Finish

    Height Gain

    Max Gradient

    Loch Rannoch Circumnavigation

    22 miles

    Any

    Your starting point

    Undulating

    Surprisingly flat

    All around the loch

    Loch Rannoch Circumnavigation with Rannoch Station

    32 miles

    Any

    Your starting point

    Undulating

    Surprisingly flat

    As above but with detour out to Rannoch Station

    Kinloch Rannoch

    40 miles

    Aberfeldy

    Aberfeldy

    Approx 2500ft

    10%

    Take the B846 to Kinloch Rannoch, via Tummel Bridge, and return via Schiehallion. This will give you the opportunity to tackle the King of the Mountains climb, used in the Etape Caledonia annual event. The markings are on the road although become a little faint towards the end of the year

    Top

    Practicalities

    Public Conveniences

  • Rannoch Station - officially for would-be rail passengers and patrons of the café, but who's checking...?
  • Kinloch Rannoch - Publicly Available Toilet scheme (i.e. the café in the square)
  • Schiehallion - Braes of Foss car park
  • Loch Tummel - Forestry Commission Allean
  • Queen's View visitor centre (P&D Car Park)

  • Fuel

  • Aberfeldy, at Co-op - not 24 hours
  • Ballinluig, 10 miles east of Aberfeldy, on the A9 - not 24 hours
  • Pitlochry, BP to the south of the town - not 24 hours
  • Bridge of Tilt, Blair Atholl - not 24 hours

  • Vehicle Recharging

  • The Square, Kinloch Rannoch PH16 5PN
  • Moness Terrace car park, Aberfeldy PH15 2AF
  • Taymouth Marina, Kenmore PH15 2HW
  • Rie-Achan Road, Pitlochry PH16 5AW
  • Railway Station, Pitlochry PH16 5AN
  • Fonab Castle, Foss Road, Pitlochry PH16 5ND
  • Knockendarroch Hotel, Higher Oakfield Road, Pitlochry PH16 5HT
  • Atholl Street car park, Dunkeld PH8 0AT

  • Refreshments

    Kinloch Rannoch

    Cafe in the square, McDonald Hotel to the west of the village on B846

    Tummel

    Inn on the Tummel

    Rannoch Station

    Cafe

    Queen's View Visitor Centre

    Cafe

    Tummel Bridge

    A number of establishments

    Pitlochry

    Spoiled for choice - from kebab and Chinese carryout to haute cuisine

    Ballinluig

    Services for the A9 - Motorgrill and Red Brolly

    Other

    Medical Practice

  • Kinloch Rannoch Medical Practice, The Surgery, Kinloch Rannoch PH16 5PR
    01882 632216
  • Aberfeldy Medical Practice, Taybridge Road, Aberfeldy PH15 2BH
    01887 820366
  • Pitlochry Hospital, Ferry Road, Pitlochry PH16 5FG
    01796 472052

  • Defibrillator

  • Next to Kenmore Hotel, Kenmore PH15 2NU
  • The Birks Cinema, 1 Dunkeld Street, Aberfeldy PH15 2DA

  • Library

  • Aberfeldy Library, Breadalbane Campus, Aberfeldy PH15 2DU
  • Pitlochry Library, 26 Atholl Road, Pitlochry PH16 5BX

  • Top